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Circle, Pleat, and Gather Formula Sheet

These formulas expose every variable so a result can be reconciled by hand. They describe geometry and a user-selected fullness ratio; they do not select fit, style, fold depth, or construction for a project.

Reviewed on 2026-07-13.

Circle, Pleat, and Gather Formula Sheet
ItemFormulaMeaningNote
Circle waist radiusr = (waist + ease) ÷ (2π × fraction)Lengths share one unit; fraction is unitless.
Outer radiusR = r + waist seam allowance + skirt length + hem allowanceR uses the selected length unit.
Fullness source widthS = finished width × ratioRatio is unitless and selected by the user.
Pleat repeatscount = floor(finished width ÷ repeat width)Remainder stays separate.

Variables and units

  • r and R = radii in a length unit
  • fraction = 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, or 1
  • S = source width; ratio = source width ÷ finished width

Worked example

A 100-centimeter finished span at 3× fullness needs 300 centimeters of source width. With a 12-centimeter repeat it has eight whole repeats and 4 centimeters remaining.

Cautions

  • Fullness ratio is a design input, not a universal rule.
  • Commercial pattern instructions take precedence over general equations.

Specific commercial pattern instructions take precedence whenever they differ from this general reference.

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